The Peculiarium

The Peculiarium is one of those odd little niches that’s helping with Portland unofficial motto: “Keep Portland Weird”. The mini-museum is tucked away on 22^nd and Thurman, near the popular NE 23^rd avenue. The small size makes it a quick diversion.

The museum itself is mostly there for the photo opportunities. Want to take your picture with Krampus, or as the victim in an alien dissection scene? They have your Instagrammable moments all set up and ready to go. The other exhibits are less enthralling. I suppose there’s some people who might pay the admission just to see the case of Star Trek memorabilia; I am not one of them. The Zombie Brain Experience was underwhelming. Other tidbits– like the vampire hunter’s kit– were interesting but not something that I would have gone out of my way to find.

The Peculiarium is definitely worth doing once. Since it will only take you a few minutes to get through, plan to do a few other things in the area. Many local distilleries have tasting rooms set up on nearby 23^rd, and there’s plenty of interesting art galleries, boutiques, and quirky little shops to enjoy there.

Four Essential Portland Vegan Bars

The craft cocktail scene is one of the best parts of Portland. Portland is also one of the cities with the highest per capita concentrations of vegans. Even if you’re traveling with non-vegans, they won’t feel put out– the food at most is fantastic. There’s an awareness that being a vegan bar alone isn’t enough– the food has to be every bit as fantastic as the regular bar down the street. Market competition can be a beautiful thing.

Portland also has a number of distilleries with attached tasting rooms. While many are small and niche enough not to be on Barnivore, it’s still worth dropping in. The polite, friendly staff will be able to tell you if there’s anything that you need to avoid. Since you’re usually drinking at the same location that the booze is made (sometimes even in the same room) the staff are intimately familiar with the creation process. If they use animal based clarifying agents, the nice person behind the bar will be able to advise you.

If you’re drinking at a bar rather than a distillery, you may still want to double check a few things on Barnivore. You’ll notice that I refer to Campari a few times. Campari became a bit of a litmus– the clarification process is decidedly not vegan, but it showed up time and again some vegan bars. It’s also hard to replace– there just aren’t that many bitter blood orange liqueurs on the market. I’d been wondering whether it was showing up because of it being hard to substitute, because whoever did purchasing was unaware, or another reason. On a slower night, I asked the bartender at Sweet Hereafter why they had Campari behind the bar, as it’s fined with animal-based gelatin. He launched into a schpeal about how they no longer use insect coloration so it’s vegan now. I blinked, realized that the bartender might actually not know what fining is, and explained that I was asking about the animal products used in the clarification process. He said that he was pretty sure that Campari had stopped using animal products, but would double check– and then he never came back.

So, yeah. Until otherwise proven, I’m taking Campari behind the bar to be an indicator that it’s worth double checking the alcohols on your smartphone before you down a shot.

If you’re ready for a bar crawl, then here’s a few of my favorites.

Off The Griddle – This cozy breakfast spot turns into a bar with a heavy dose of comfort food at night. Thank goodness– there’s a horrendous wait to get a table for a weekend brunch, but even on Friday nights it’s possible to get a seat at the bar and a hearty sandwich. The menu is mostly vegan– though there are a couple of egg and dairy options and careful ingredient segregation is practiced. The Griddle tries to be the kind of place that you can convince your omnivorous sister to come with you. Behind their bar you’ll see a range of local craft spirits– and also Campari. Located on Foster, it’s deep enough in Southeast to be away from most of the major tourist attractions. However, the area around this bar is quickly filling up with trendy shops and cool places to kill an afternoon.

No Bones Beach Club— My favorite vegan bar in Portland, hands down. I never thought that I’d want to go to anything that vibrantly colored, let alone enjoy myself there. Let’s just say that my normal goth aesthetic isn’t in keeping with the hibiscus flowers and tropical prints. The food is exquisite, and the drinks are faultless. Try the flautas, and save room for dessert. There is NO Campari behind this bar. Although No Bones does blood orange cocktails, they use actual blood orange juice for that flavor. No Bones is a chain, with other locations in Seattle and Chicago for the lucky folks in either city.

The Portland location is in Northeast, not too far from the Yellow Line. The neighborhood is one of those trendy spots that was the exact opposite about fifteen years ago.

Black Water Bar – What could be more Portland than a vegan pirate punk bar? I’ve never checked out the live shows– those just aren’t my scene– but it’s a nice place to kill some time and catch up with friends during the slow parts of the day. Don’t expect sophisticated cuisine. The food is hearty, the drinks are strong, and cute animal videos are usually playing on the TV. The bar is near to the Lloyd district, so is easily accessible by public transit. It’s also easy to reach for anyone in town for business at the convention center.

Was there Campari behind the bar? I wish I could tell you, but my memory of my visits is a little bit fuzzy after the point where the alcohol kicked in.

Sweet Hereafter— This bar is crawling with hipsters, but once you try their drinks you won’t care. There’s an extensive selection of liquors behind the bar, including many local craft options. There’s Campari at this bar. I suspect that the bartenders know more about what liquors are on trend than what the liquors are made out of, so it’s a good idea to double check things on Barnivore. That said, they know how to make a delicious drink. The location on Southeast Belmont Street makes it an easy stop to combine with a visit to the Hawthorne District, or a number of other nearby attractions.

Rose Festival, Circa 1914

With the Rose Festival starting off in Portland, I wanted to share this vintage photo that I found.  This comes from the book Portland The Metropolis and Vicinity, Illustrated, and was published in 1914.  The tradition of parades and flower shows is still quite strong, though I’m guessing that the 1914 itinerary didn’t include one of my favorite events– the dragon boat races.

Mt. Tabor Nature Park

Mt. Tabor is the dormant volcano in the middle of Portland, Oregon.  You’ll want to check the trail map before going.   It’s accessible by car or by bus– I used the #15 Belmont to get there.  Approaching from some directions leads to a fairly mundane children’s playground, while others take you here.

My trip was made a bit more interesting because it was April 20th.  Portland is one of those wonderful states with legalized marijuana, and the mountaintop was covered with very mellow people, friendly dogs, and one very enterprising hot dog vendor.  The hike to the top isn’t bad.  Many non-Portlanders, those from actually mountainous regions, scoff at Tabor being called a volcano.  Let’s be real– most cities would have just called it a hill and been done with it.  It’s a very pretty hill, though.

The park also contains several city water reservoirs, leading to views like this.

Afterwards, we stumbled down the west side of the park and back towards the Hawthorne neighborhood for snacks.  The location and bus access makes it good for visiting Hawthorne afterwards, or Belmont street beforehand.

Marukin Ramen

Marukin is a Tokyo based ramen shop that has expanded into Portland.  I visited their Pine Street Market location, which was steamy and warm despite the frigid rain outside.  The market is a food hall– nine or so restaurants around shared seating.  Even with the shared seating, Marukin has opted to create a bar for their customers to sit at.  It’s worth sitting there and watching their cooks work– there’s a definite art to the way that they move around the kitchen.

The menu itself is simple and purposeful– you have four options, all of them very well done.  Two are vegan.  Drinks are available, ranging from green tea or Ramune to beers, sakes, and whiskeys.  And yes, the alcohol is also vegan.  The staff encouraged us to mix and match drinks from other restaurants in the complex if we didn’t see what we wanted, but after coming in from outside only hot tea would do.

Our food was exactly what you’d want on a wet, rainy day– hot, satisfying, rich but not too rich, and with enough different flavors to keep the bowl interesting.

Neighborhood: downtown

Sellwood

Sellwood is quaint, and they like it that way, thank you very much. The neighborhood used to be a separate town, long before it was absorbed into Portland.  The neighborhood is known for its cute bungalows, antiques shops, and cafes.

I was coming from Sellwood park, and one of the first things that I came across was the Oaks Pioneer Church.  It was built in 1851, but hasn’t been on its current site that entire time.

 

The main thing to do in Sellwood is to shop.  I promised myself that I would just window shop, but the wicked temptation of Sock Dreams was too much for me.  Yes, there’s an entire shop– nestled in a cute Victorian house– that aims to make your socks the most exciting part of your wardrobe.

I kept having to remind myself that I have no more space for antiques in my home, even if they’re vintage Oregon zoo posters or pumpkin-shaped tea sets.  I also have plenty of spices to use up in my kitchen cabinet, despite the temptations of Savory Spice Shop.

There were so many delicious places to tempt me.  The food cart pod was largely closed  except for the pizza and ice cream options.  Tea Chai Te, the tea shop in an old railroad caboose, nearly tempted me in– but it was Taiwanese restaurant Wei Wei that eventually lured me through the door.  The food was well prepared.  The lady behind the counter was very aware of what went in her food– including what allergens were in which dishes.  Someone on a vegan or gluten free diet could still get an excellent meal.  I stuffed myself on mustard greens and mushrooms.  And did I mention that they serve winter melon drinks on hot days?  If you’ve never had a cool glass of winter melon flavored anything on a hot day, then you need to.  Also– they have metal chopsticks.  My pet peeve is going to an otherwise upscale Asian place and getting splinters in my hand from cheap disposable chopsticks.

I wished I had all day and a bigger budget to linger in the area.  There was a shop advertising wine and ice cream sandwiches.  Who wouldn’t want that combo, or to try one of the multiple tea houses in the area?  I can’t wait to come back.

Nearby: Sellwood Park and Oaks Park

 

Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge

It was time for an adventure, and that meant going somewhere new.  I was aware of Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge– I’d been aware of the landfill-turned-wildlife-preserve but had never actually been inside.  Now that the orange line max has gone in, it’s much closer to public transit for some– for others it’s still a very inconvenient bus ride.  It was worth the inconvenience.

The refuge itself has the kind of vast green tangle that I’ve gotten used to in Oregon, but there are paths that come out by the river.

I opted to follow the Springwater Corridor trail, assuming that it would be easier than the Bluff  Trail.  I failed to take into account that it was blisteringly hot, and the Springwater Trail is paved.  The view was still worth it.

This stunning mural is on the back of the Portland Memorial Mausoleum.  It overlooks a large marsh.

On my way out, I passed Oaks Bottom amusement park. It was a school day and the park was empty, but the carnival rides were ready and waiting.  The park opened in 1905– it’s one of the largest still-operating amusement parks in the country.

My feet were starting to regret the decision to move on to Sellwood Riverfront Park, but it turned out to be the exact right thing to do.  The park was the perfect place to rejuvenate.  Is there anything better than a vast green space full of friendly dogs?  The off leash area goes right up to the river, and there’s a stair case that can be used to step into the Willamette and wade.  I spent about an hour re-hydrating while I watched dogs swim after balls.

Murder: a good excuse to visit the library

In the winter of 1929-1930, there was a particularly important murder which history has forgotten about.   Portland was experiencing tumultuous strikes, and strike breaker James Conner was shot dead at what was frequently referred to as “Scab Hall”.  Scab Hall was on Alberta street– these days a fashionable area.  Portland On The Take didn’t give me the exact address, but it did give me enough information that I ought to be able to find out which modern-day trendy art gallery was the location.  When the internet failed to give me what I needed, it was time for a trip to the library.

Portland’s central library is an architectural masterpiece.  I mean, really– who wouldn’t want an excuse to come here?

The library was one of A.E. Doyle’s works.  I know that he was one of Portland’s defining architects, but I Haven’t yet had the chance to read Beauty of the City.  Seriously, though, I love that visiting the library has become a tourist attraction.  Every library needs this level of grandeur.  And who doesn’t want one of these?

Information was curiously absent in the city directory.  The index of newspaper articles by topic didn’t list it under murder or shootings– but perhaps the papers of the day didn’t want to report on a death that the police likely had a hand in.  Despite the police being the only ones on scene with guns, a number of union leaders were charged with the murder.  It took months for them to all be acquitted.  Thanks to some help from several wonderful librarians, I have three leads on the site.  Figuring out which location it is will take some effort, but I’ve made a valiant start.

Neighborhood: Downtown

Getting To Portland

Many travelers arrive to Portland through its international airport, largely famed for its ugly carpet.  The airport itself is connected to the city via light rail.  Simply buy a ticket and get moving– see here for more information on riding Trimet.  Uber and Lyft are also available and usually cheaper than cabs.  I would especially avoid cabs when headed to catch a flight home– the cabbies in this town suddenly become inclined to demand an extra $200 to open the trunk and let you have your bags before your flight leaves.

If you’re in the Northwest already, there’s little reason to fly.  Amtrak takes about the same amount of time to get between Portland and Seattle, when you account for the time spent in TSA lines.  The wifi in Amtrak is hit or miss, but the scenery is pleasant and the ride more comfortable.  Portland’s Union Station is known for its beautiful Romanesque Revival architecture.  The interior looks like the sort of place that you’d say goodbye to your lover in a period drama.

I haven’t tried regular Greyhound in and out, but I have used their Bolt Bus service.  Bolt Bus is by far my favorite means of getting in and out of Portland.  The discount bus company provides comfortable seats, wifi, and the ability to charge your devices.  They use a very interesting price model that can make your trip much cheaper if you plan ahead or go when there’s less competition for seats.

Arriving by car is also possible, not not always advisable.  I-5 traffic is far less frustrating when you’re watching from a train window or reading while the bus driver handles it.

Eating Near Portland’s Convention Center

Portland is increasingly a convention destination.  While the convention center has restaurants, they are expensive.  If you come all the way to Portland, you’ll certainly want to get out and explore more than just the convention center.  You’ll notice that I’ve taken some time to talk about which restaurants are especially good or especially bad at handling things like food allergies.  Someone visiting for a convention may not have tons of time to plan, and I’ve found apps like AllergyEats to be unreliable at best.

Let’s start with where to grab lunch.  The closest fast food place outside of the convention center is Burgerville, a local fast food chain featuring sustainable food and fifties style decor.  They’re so Portland that the wall graphics tell you who grows your meal and how the fryer oil is recycled.  The convention center Burgerville is apt to be crowded.  It’s the only fast food option that’s really close, and it also serves customers of the nearby Moda center.  Burgerville posts allergen information on their website, though cross contamination is still a risk during the cooking process.

Heading out a little further, you’ll find some less-Portlandish restaurants.  Strangely, there is no cart pod in the vicinity.  Red Robin, Burger King, and Denny’s are all just what you’d find anywhere.  Among them is Muchas Gracias, a local Mexican fast food chain.  They’re a bit more expensive than the Taco Bell next door, but the quality is substantially better.  If you take the light rail one stop east of the convention center (or simply walk), you’ll encounter Cafe Yumm, and Oregon-based rice bowl chain.  Cafe Yumm also provides dietary and allergy information on their website.  Lloyd Center Mall– two light rail stops east– has an unremarkable food court.

There are a few gems in the Lloyd District for those who have a little time to sit down and enjoy themselves.  Frank’s House of Noodles, which you may ave seen on Food Network, is my area favorite.  Expect a wait for a table at Frank’s.  If you order take out, it will take longer than they say on the phone.  Across the street from Frank’s is Black Water, a vegan pirate bar with surprisingly good meatless meals.  Up the street you’ll find McMennamin’s a local brew pub chain with cold beer and hearty food.  McMennamin’s also makes information about certain dietary restrictions available online.  It’s worth mentioning that the Broadway/Lloyd District McMennamin’s staff are actually fairly good about handling dietary issues. While the chain used to be a go-to when someone in our group had a restricted diet, many of their other locations have staff that are frighteningly unprepared for this.  I’d trust the Broadway staff with a food allergy, but don’t extend that trust to less-well run branches.  Aztec Willie and Jake’s is a decent taqueria in the vicinity.  The only real don’t for the district is Sushi Yuki, who does bad things to perfectly good fish.  I can only presume that their convenient location keeps them in business– it’s certainly not their cooking or service.

I would not recommend taking light rail west for lunch in Chinatown.  Unlike many other cities, Portland’s Chinatown is largely devoid of Chinese people– and Chinese restaurants.  There is decent Dim Sum to be had at House of Louie, but I’d save Chinatown for a day off rather than lunch between presentations.

Relaxing after your day is over is a bit easier.  With more time to spare, you might consider catching the #6 bus to go to the Russell Street Barbecue.  Prepare for that stuffed feeling that you get at Thanksgiving–you won’t be able to stop eating, even if you order a meal that burns your face off.  The tab can add up quickly if you order drinks, but it’s the kind of place that it’s worth letting loose at.  Most of the Lloyd District lunch options are also open for dinner, and McMennamin’s is a great place to relax with a pint.  Further up Broadway you’ll find The Rose and Thistle Pub, which seems to benefit frequently from convention goers relaxing after a long day.  I’d go there for a hot drink by the fire, but I would not recommend eating there if you have any food allergies whatsoever.  When that many staff members are ignorant about the subject, rather than merely rushed or careless, it’s likely an issue with management’s hiring standards.

Taking the street car east will lead you to the Southeast Industrial District.  Letting loose in Distillery Row, if you have a free afternoon, is a fun way to unwind and maybe pick up a souvenir bottle.  You may wish to consider picking up a Distillery Passport if you’re making a day of it.  Quirky dive bar My Father’s Place is the kind of place that locals go to unwind inexpensively on Friday nights.  The Lovecraft Bar– named for the horror author– can make for a fun but crowded night out.  The only downside to the Lovecraft is the other patrons– while most are also there to have fun, you sometimes run into the goth equivalent of a high school mean girl, there to assert dominance with catty comments at all in her path.

Montage restaurant is must if you can.  They’re open late, and serve up rich cream-heavy meals.  I recommend trying the alligator if you’re up for an adventure.