Marukin Ramen

Marukin is a Tokyo based ramen shop that has expanded into Portland.  I visited their Pine Street Market location, which was steamy and warm despite the frigid rain outside.  The market is a food hall– nine or so restaurants around shared seating.  Even with the shared seating, Marukin has opted to create a bar for their customers to sit at.  It’s worth sitting there and watching their cooks work– there’s a definite art to the way that they move around the kitchen.

The menu itself is simple and purposeful– you have four options, all of them very well done.  Two are vegan.  Drinks are available, ranging from green tea or Ramune to beers, sakes, and whiskeys.  And yes, the alcohol is also vegan.  The staff encouraged us to mix and match drinks from other restaurants in the complex if we didn’t see what we wanted, but after coming in from outside only hot tea would do.

Our food was exactly what you’d want on a wet, rainy day– hot, satisfying, rich but not too rich, and with enough different flavors to keep the bowl interesting.

Marukin Ramen

Neighborhood: downtown

Sellwood

Sellwood is quaint, and they like it that way, thank you very much. The neighborhood used to be a separate town, long before it was absorbed into Portland.  The neighborhood is known for its cute bungalows, antiques shops, and cafes.

I was coming from Sellwood park, and one of the first things that I came across was the Oaks Pioneer Church.  It was built in 1851, but hasn’t been on its current site that entire time.

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The main thing to do in Sellwood is to shop.  I promised myself that I would just window shop, but the wicked temptation of Sock Dreams was too much for me.  Yes, there’s an entire shop– nestled in a cute Victorian house– that aims to make your socks the most exciting part of your wardrobe.

I kept having to remind myself that I have no more space for antiques in my home, even if they’re vintage Oregon zoo posters or pumpkin-shaped tea sets.  I also have plenty of spices to use up in my kitchen cabinet, despite the temptations of Savory Spice Shop.

There were so many delicious places to tempt me.  The food cart pod was largely closed  except for the pizza and ice cream options.  Tea Chai Te, the tea shop in an old railroad caboose, nearly tempted me in– but it was Taiwanese restaurant Wei Wei that eventually lured me through the door.  The food was well prepared.  The lady behind the counter was very aware of what went in her food– including what allergens were in which dishes.  Someone on a vegan or gluten free diet could still get an excellent meal.  I stuffed myself on mustard greens and mushrooms.  And did I mention that they serve winter melon drinks on hot days?  If you’ve never had a cool glass of winter melon flavored anything on a hot day, then you need to.  Also– they have metal chopsticks.  My pet peeve is going to an otherwise upscale Asian place and getting splinters in my hand from cheap disposable chopsticks.

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I wished I had all day and a bigger budget to linger in the area.  There was a shop advertising wine and ice cream sandwiches.  Who wouldn’t want that combo, or to try one of the multiple tea houses in the area?  I can’t wait to come back.

Nearby: Sellwood Park and Oaks Park

 

Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge

It was time for an adventure, and that meant going somewhere new.  I was aware of Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge– I’d been aware of the landfill-turned-wildlife-preserve but had never actually been inside.  Now that the orange line max has gone in, it’s much closer to public transit for some– for others it’s still a very inconvenient bus ride.  It was worth the inconvenience.

The refuge itself has the kind of vast green tangle that I’ve gotten used to in Oregon, but there are paths that come out by the river.

I opted to follow the Springwater Corridor trail, assuming that it would be easier than the Bluff  Trail.  I failed to take into account that it was blisteringly hot, and the Springwater Trail is paved.  The view was still worth it.

This stunning mural is on the back of the Portland Memorial Mausoleum.  It overlooks a large marsh.

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On my way out, I passed Oaks Bottom amusement park. It was a school day and the park was empty, but the carnival rides were ready and waiting.  The park opened in 1905– it’s one of the largest still-operating amusement parks in the country.

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My feet were starting to regret the decision to move on to Sellwood Riverfront Park, but it turned out to be the exact right thing to do.  The park was the perfect place to rejuvenate.  Is there anything better than a vast green space full of friendly dogs?  The off leash area goes right up to the river, and there’s a stair case that can be used to step into the Willamette and wade.  I spent about an hour re-hydrating while I watched dogs swim after balls.

Eating Near Portland’s Convention Center

Portland is increasingly a convention destination.  While the convention center has restaurants, they are expensive.  If you come all the way to Portland, you’ll certainly want to get out and explore more than just the convention center.  You’ll notice that I’ve taken some time to talk about which restaurants are especially good or especially bad at handling things like food allergies.  Someone visiting for a convention may not have tons of time to plan, and I’ve found apps like AllergyEats to be unreliable at best.

Let’s start with where to grab lunch.  The closest fast food place outside of the convention center is Burgerville, a local fast food chain featuring sustainable food and fifties style decor.  They’re so Portland that the wall graphics tell you who grows your meal and how the fryer oil is recycled.  The convention center Burgerville is apt to be crowded.  It’s the only fast food option that’s really close, and it also serves customers of the nearby Moda center.  Burgerville posts allergen information on their website, though cross contamination is still a risk during the cooking process.

Heading out a little further, you’ll find some less-Portlandish restaurants.  Strangely, there is no cart pod in the vicinity.  Red Robin, Burger King, and Denny’s are all just what you’d find anywhere.  Among them is Muchas Gracias, a local Mexican fast food chain.  They’re a bit more expensive than the Taco Bell next door, but the quality is substantially better.  If you take the light rail one stop east of the convention center (or simply walk), you’ll encounter Cafe Yumm, and Oregon-based rice bowl chain.  Cafe Yumm also provides dietary and allergy information on their website.  Lloyd Center Mall– two light rail stops east– has an unremarkable food court.

There are a few gems in the Lloyd District for those who have a little time to sit down and enjoy themselves.  Frank’s House of Noodles, which you may ave seen on Food Network, is my area favorite.  Expect a wait for a table at Frank’s.  If you order take out, it will take longer than they say on the phone.  Across the street from Frank’s is Black Water, a vegan pirate bar with surprisingly good meatless meals.  Up the street you’ll find McMennamin’s a local brew pub chain with cold beer and hearty food.  McMennamin’s also makes information about certain dietary restrictions available online.  It’s worth mentioning that the Broadway/Lloyd District McMennamin’s staff are actually fairly good about handling dietary issues. While the chain used to be a go-to when someone in our group had a restricted diet, many of their other locations have staff that are frighteningly unprepared for this.  I’d trust the Broadway staff with a food allergy, but don’t extend that trust to less-well run branches.  Aztec Willie and Jake’s is a decent taqueria in the vicinity.  The only real don’t for the district is Sushi Yuki, who does bad things to perfectly good fish.  I can only presume that their convenient location keeps them in business– it’s certainly not their cooking or service.

I would not recommend taking light rail west for lunch in Chinatown.  Unlike many other cities, Portland’s Chinatown is largely devoid of Chinese people– and Chinese restaurants.  There is decent Dim Sum to be had at House of Louie, but I’d save Chinatown for a day off rather than lunch between presentations.

Relaxing after your day is over is a bit easier.  With more time to spare, you might consider catching the #6 bus to go to the Russell Street Barbecue.  Prepare for that stuffed feeling that you get at Thanksgiving–you won’t be able to stop eating, even if you order a meal that burns your face off.  The tab can add up quickly if you order drinks, but it’s the kind of place that it’s worth letting loose at.  Most of the Lloyd District lunch options are also open for dinner, and McMennamin’s is a great place to relax with a pint.  Further up Broadway you’ll find The Rose and Thistle Pub, which seems to benefit frequently from convention goers relaxing after a long day.  I’d go there for a hot drink by the fire, but I would not recommend eating there if you have any food allergies whatsoever.  When that many staff members are ignorant about the subject, rather than merely rushed or careless, it’s likely an issue with management’s hiring standards.

Taking the street car east will lead you to the Southeast Industrial District.  Letting loose in Distillery Row, if you have a free afternoon, is a fun way to unwind and maybe pick up a souvenir bottle.  You may wish to consider picking up a Distillery Passport if you’re making a day of it.  Quirky dive bar My Father’s Place is the kind of place that locals go to unwind inexpensively on Friday nights.  The Lovecraft Bar– named for the horror author– can make for a fun but crowded night out.  The only downside to the Lovecraft is the other patrons– while most are also there to have fun, you sometimes run into the goth equivalent of a high school mean girl, there to assert dominance with catty comments at all in her path.

Montage restaurant is must if you can.  They’re open late, and serve up rich cream-heavy meals.  I recommend trying the alligator if you’re up for an adventure.

Food Cart: Kim Jong Grillin

Kim Jong Grillin is one of those Portland food carts that quickly becomes a staple. The Southeast Division Street Cart has a simple seven-item Korean food menu. What they do, they do well. The first time that I Tried them, I was concerned that there wasn’t sauce to invigorate the abundance of fluffy white rice. I quickly discovered that the plain rice was needed to blaance the richness of the bulgogi and pickled vegetables. At $12, it’s spendier than many Portland food carts. They’re also well worth the price– I consistently come back, rather than going to to cart pod just up the street.

Kim Jong Grillin

Restaurant: Paradox Cafe

Paradox Cafe is not the best brunch place in Portland.  They don’t have to be– I’ll take the “really good” to “amazing but has a line around the block” any Sunday morning.  Their vegetarian and vegan menu focuses on making vegetables taste good rather than doing yet another sub-par meatless knock off dish.  It’s the kind of place that you go to because everyone in your group will enjoy the options, and the vegan in your party doesn’t have to make do with the fruit cup that would be their only option at other places.  The obligatory vegan friend is part of the Portland experience.  If you don’t make one shortly after arriving, someone that you know will feel the spontaneous desire to convert.  And your vegan friend will be annoyed if they always get stuck with restaurants where they have only one breakfast option. Luckily, Paradox is a place where everyone can enjoy breakfast.

Paradox Cafe

The staff are usually great, but we’ve had a few customer service misses over the years.  Sometimes there’s a line during prime weekend hours, but usually you can slide right in.

Neighborhood: Belmont

Nearby: Hawthorne Street, Lone Fir Cemetery, The Tao of Tea

Restaurant: The Tao of Tea Belmont

The Tao of Tea’s Belmont street location is one of my favorite places to catch up with friends, or even relax solo.  Even when they’re busy, the pace of life seems slower there. The surroundings themselves are lovely, but when the world slows down you begin to notice all of the other lovely little things– the way the light of a candle flame embellishes the worn wood of your table, or the glint of the sunlight on a perfect bowl of soba noodles. Although the street outside is busy, watching he cars from inside begins to feel almost meditative.

The menu is entirely vegetarian, with many vegan and gluten free options.  Both snacks and light meals are available to go with your tea.  The food and the tea are largely pan-Asian, with options from India to Japan and the countries in between.  If you aren’t sure what to try, the staff are very helpful.  They will also be happy to show you how to use any unfamiliar tea ware.  As a general recommendation, I prefer lapsang souchong in winter– a rich pine-smoked black tea.  In warm weather I’m partial to lotus ancien, a green tea slow roasted with lotus blossoms.  Try it if they have the good stuff– from a very small farm in Vietnam.  It’s in high demand, so they often run out.  The other roasted lotus tea that they use is not the same.

During peak hours, there is often a wait for a table.  At 3 pm or so on a week day, you’ll find it much more pleasant.

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Nearby: Paradox Cafe The Best of Belmont Street, Lone Fir Cemetery,

Related: Lan Su Chinese Garden.  The tea house there is run by the same company.